Hollywood without a make-up? Ilona Herman
Written by Eva Csölleová, Vítek FormánekMake up artist belongs to film as any other profession. Meeting someone who does that is always interesting and to meet someone who is personal make up artist for top Hollywood actors like Roberto De Niro, Sean Connery, Nicolas Cage or Uma Thurman is an extraordinary experience and obviously brings up lots of questions. We were lucky to have met Ilona Herman at the Zlín film festival, a make up artist of Czech origin living in the USA for 3 decades. Her views were first-hand Hollywood experience.
Are you make- up artist who somehow got to film or you aimed to be that from your childhood?
From my early years, from childhood really I was dreaming and aiming to be make- up artist.I decided I want to work in film business and of course I wanted to go to Hollywood, which was mecca of film industry. I say w a s because now it´s not as busy place as it used to be.Many films are made in Louisina, Chicago or Vancouver and many people in Hollywood are jobless.
So can we say you fulfilled your life dream?
Absolutelly, I am very happy person.There is nothing I haven´t fulfilled in my life.Who can say that?
How does it work in your trade?You are hired by studio, then you earn some credit and it grapevines and this gets you other job offer?
It is different in my case since I work with only one actor.I don´do the whole film I work only with main star.At the beginning of my career I was working mainly on TV and learnt my craft in prothetic studio in LA, that is why I am not a feature artist but make- up artist which is big difference.My first big movie was with Sean Connery.We met up during shooting Japan commercial and it clicked well between us.The chemistry worked.Then he invited me for shooting of James Bond and that´s how it started.I became his personal make- up artist which was a big, big experience for me, since we travelled a lot together cos James Bond was made during 9 months.It was filmed in 8 countries so we spent lots of time together in planes, talking together while I was making wigs.
During my work with Sean Connery and Dusting Hoffman in New York I got out of blue a call to my hotel room.I lift the handset and on other side is says“ Hi, I am de Niro“ and I am telling him“ Of course, you must be kidding, fuck you“ but he insisted „ No, no, I am really Roberto De Niro“. So that is how started our cooperation.
Can you become good friend with „ your actors“ or there is some ethical line which you must not cross?
No, no.We are real friends, we almost daily phone each other.I am Godmother of Uma Thurman´s three kids.
Surgeon assistant must know operation from A-Z.Do you have to know screenplay in detail?
Yes, of course.I read whole screnplay about month sooner that an actor.Then I start working, search infos, make research.For example when we made „ Cape fear“ where Roberto De Niro depicts a murderer who raped I got a permission to visit prisons and talked to rapists there.From that talking I invented that tattoo which De Niro had in film on his body.He was working hard in gym for four hours a day over a month to get big muscles.So when it comes to shooting itself I know exactly how the actor must feel, who does he play, when comes this and that, how it should look.
What is more difficult, make actor uglier or nicer, younger or older?
It´s from case to case, but I must admit that in, say, Benjamin Button where Brad Pitt is born as very old man and he gets younger and younger, it had to be damn hard job for make-up artist.
Are you contracted only to De Niro and Nicolas Cage which means if say Tom Hanks or Tom Cruie call you, you would have to refuse?
No, of course I could work for Tom but if I have more of the star actors it is very diffucult to juggle it together timewise.So I feel very sorry if I have to refuse someone.Once I was working with Sean Connery in Moscow and I also worked with Roberto De Niro in New York so I flew for 3 days to NY did what I had to with Roberto and then flew to Moscow for few days to work with Sean and again and again.Very difficult.
Does the chemistry must work between you and an actor or you could tell say „ Roberto, I respect you as an actor, but you piss me off as human being, so I can´t work with you“?
Look, if you spend so much time with somebody like I do with an actor, it simply must work, otherwise, it could not be possible.I am their personal friend, make- up artist, assistant and I also cook them.I have my well equipped caravan where I have all I need.So once, during shooting, I made them a typical roasted Czech duck with sauerkraut and dumplings.They loved it. The caravan has it´s driver so when I have to work with actor I give him instructions, put the pot with potatoes on and leave.Once I do my job I go back to have a look how is cooking going.So I do everything for actors and chemistry definitelly must work.
When you make up actor for say 6-12 hours, are they patient or restless?
They are very patient but is very hard.I will give you an example from one shooting.With Roberto we went for late dinner at 10.p.m.About midnight we came to studio and till late morning I worked with all asistants.In between that, I was cooking soups for everyone.So that way we filmed whole day and following night and then we had a day off.So I went to see the daily work and second night I went back to business.We again went to dinner at 10.p.m. came to studio around midnight and it went same routine first six weeks.
So you personally know actors well.What kind of people are they?Are they kind of high and mighty?
No, they are great people.But I think I am lucky to be in position I am in so I can choose.If I felt any kind of tension or negative emotions I wouldn´t have taken that job.Of course there are the actors I couldn´t work with but I won´t name the names.I would like to work with every good actor.When the film is finished“ my actor“ comes to me and thanks me for work.
Excuse our question but how are you paid?For film irregardless of how much work you do or it is like in barber´s shop so say tattoo 100 dollars, getting older by 10 years 200 dollars etc?
I have contract for a movie and I am paid once a week.
When you get a screnplay, how long do you have to get ready for the film which starts say in December, in order to be ready for everything?
I read the screenplay and talk to actor.He tells me his idea, I tell him mine.Than I start talking to director and it goes on and on that way.Usually, when I get a screenplay, after reading it I have clear idea what will I need and then I order that.I get it delivered right to my caravan.It´s totally team work, in this situation noone is the boss and noone is inferior.
When the Academy award for make up is presented, what are the criteria for that?How ugly that actor looked like or how well his mask settled into film and time?
I don´t get Academy awards since I do everything from dress, masks, hairs, sometimes even costumes.During sequel of Kill Bill I was colouring Uma Thurman´s costume till 4. a.m. since designed costume didn´t fit.So because of the fact I do so many different jobs I don´t qualify for Academy award.But I don´t do it because of that anyway.I am pleased I can do what I want, it´s not a job, it ś pleasure.
Sean Connery was or still is considered as sex symbol.What is he like really?
He has great charisma.When someone enters the room, noone will notice that but if Sean enters the room, everyone turns his head since „Mr. Somebody“ entered.He has something
magical in him.I tell you one story from filming „ Name of the rose“.There was a big press conference in Germany and there was bloody cold in that room.So I put red wine into the jug instead of coffee and made the mould wine.And Sean said publicly through PA system. „What a great make- up artist I have, she is so clever that she changed coffee for mould wine“.No direct thank you, but he just said this to the journalists,.Is´t is great?
We often see how the actors look in their civvies and we hardly recognise them.Are they scared about wrinkles and can they take a fact of ageing with refinement ?
Yes.I of course can´t speak for all of them since I don´t know that but noone from those actors I work with has such problems.They can take ageing and still enjoy it.
What would you reccomend someone who would like to follow to steps?
I don´t know what I would recommend him but I surely would tell him that he/ she will have great life.Who has clear mind and knows what he wants to do, it´s not difficult for him to break in.If one knows inside what he wants to do and believe in that, he is midway through and 50% is already in the bag.Abilities and exprerience will come later but important is clear vision in what I wanna do.If someone says“ Oh, I will work in Hollywood, live in luxury, have car and villa, it´s wrong attitude and it doesn´t work that way.Believe in your abilities and you will get the the sucees.